" Robert Parker (96-98) Drink: 2011 - 2018
A new offering from Mark Aubert is the 2009 Chardonnay UVSL, a selection of Old Wente clones taken from the Hyde and Hudson vineyards and planted on the hills of Green Valley. This is the first crop, and it is sensational. In fact, it is among my favorite Chardonnays in the 2009 portfolio. Tasting like a liqueur of crushed rocks intermixed with honeysuckle, baked apples, brioche and lemon butter, it is stunningly rich and medium to full-bodied with zesty acidity, purity and texture. Drink this fabulous Chardonnay over the next 5-7 years.
(Not yet released)
Mark Aubert’s brilliant Chardonnays continue to place this winery in California’s top Chardonnay hierarchy, sharing the same rarified air as Marcassin, Kongsgaard, Peter Michael, Luc Morlet, Kistler, Hartford Court and DuMol. These cool climate, usually hillside sites on the Sonoma Coast are cropped low, the wines are fermented in new French oak and bottled without fining or filtration. I am on Aubert’s mailing list, and while I never seem to have enough wines to age very long, a recent tasting of his 2004s revealed them to still be in splendid condition. With a few noteworthy exceptions, aging California Chardonnay beyond a decade is a fool’s game, but certain older Marcassin and Mt. Eden Chardonnays have impressively stood the test of time. I am sure Aubert’s would also, but who can defer their gratification that long?