"The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Laurence, the finest example of this offering I have yet tasted (even better than the 1989, 1990, and 1995), spent four years in small barrels prior to being bottled unfiltered. A spectacular effort, it is a monument to great Chateauneuf du Pape. A dense plum/purple color is followed by aromas of sweet black fruits intermixed with tobacco, cedar, pepper, and fruitcake. Powerful, rich, and concentrated, with a finish that lasts for nearly a minute, this wine is performing far better than when I tasted it a year ago. It is a legendary Chateauneuf du Pape in the making. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025.
This is one of the benchmarks for traditionally-made Chateauneuf du Pape. Paul Feraud, a classmate of Henri Bonneau, is still involved in the running of this estate, but he has given more and more responsibility to his charming, talented daughter, Laurence.
Readers looking for uncompromising Chateauneuf du Pape that can age for two decades need look no further than Pegau. Their primary vineyard plots are well-placed lieux-dits called Monpertuis, Rayas, and La Crau, the latter being the parcel from which the bulk of Pegau's wine emerges."